2004-2008 ford F-150 rear power windows inoperative

I have never been more more frustrated than with this repair im about to explain
feels good when it was finished
the culprit was a 2006 Ford F-150 Fx4 Supercrew edition . the vehicle was inspected by me before purchase at the customer request had some issues but one of thing was that all the power windows worked.
came back about a week later and guess what, the rear windows will not roll down.

most common repair is to replace the power window master switch in the driver door and its an easy shot gun repair (just throwing it in and guessing) but i fix things with diagnosis because i cant afford to be wrong haha.
so i test for power and ground distribution to the master switch from the accessory delay relay. this is a 30 amp circuit and on this particular model is the light blue/black wire going into the rear (three wire) connector at the rear section of the master switch with the key on and you should see 12volts or more at this wire w/ key on.

most likely this is good  but its a first step.(also be sure the window lock is not on) In my adventure i removed the rear door panels to confirm i had power . this is where things began to get interesting. the rear door had power flowing both ways up and down at the connector to the window motor itself which would lead mt believe that the window motor is faulty , upon connecting alligator clips safely and applying power and ground to the window regulator i found it moved down and up freely. i reconnected the switch and found that it would operate up but not down. went to the right rear door to perform the test and found that i had power going to the switch through the yellow wire with a blue line. this is the wire that feeds the other switched from the master switch ( comig from the lockout switch that allows the other switches to operate the windows)  but had intermitent ground issues took me about an hour to find that ( tested fine several times )

all switches should have a ground at there coresponding wire colors at the switch connectors at each door while the master switch is at rest ( this test done with switches disconnect from harness all except master switch
FL  TN/LB   WH/BLK   FR   TN/LB   WH/YW        RL   YE/LB GY/OG  RR RD/BK YW/BK
if you have no ground at these wires suspect master switch or open wire issues

i desided to inspect the wiring at the drivers kick panel saw nothing so i disconnected the quick connect plug at the drivers door jam ( this was trick as removing it involved swing the door slightly closed to have enough room to wiggle the connector out)

while pulling the wire protective boot up  i found a broken wire with no access to repair
so the logical step was to remove the front door panel and remove the entire harness

with the door panel off i was able to snake out the harness by disconnecting all the plugs
there is the power mirror , and three near he latch along with numerous hold downs to be removed with a trim tool and remove through the hole in the door jam harness.

with the harness on the benchi was able to remove the main connecotor by popping off the white release handle and then pop the black holding plastic off by seperating the door side and sliding it off the rubber boot. this allows you to slide the rubber boot back a ways to gain access at all the wires.
THIS IS WHERE I FOUND 4 BROKEN WIRES ALL PERTAINING TO THE REAR WINDOWS. this is where my frustration was high because the wires were touching but not able to power under load ,



I reppaired all the wires with butt connectors however one wire needed to be repined and i so happened to have proper terminal pins for this connector randomly and reassembled the door and tested that all power windows now worked the kicker was after it was together i had a intermittent failure of the rear right door power window which resulted in  faulty master switch

confirmed fix although unorthodox but i hope this guides you to your issue if you have something similar